Hokkaido 2500km Cycling Loop: Complete Budget Guide (August 2022)

Basic Information: The "Huge Road"

A wise person once said:

"Hokkaido is a huge road."

This statement is true. Mainland Japan's sense of distance doesn't apply to this massive island.

Yes—one island equals the combined regional scale of Shikoku and Kyushu.

"The nearest convenience store is 30km away."
A casual remark from an innkeeper at Cape Sōya, Japan's northernmost point. That's the Osaka-Kobe distance. Evening onigiri runs are not guaranteed.

The "Real Hokkaido" North vs. Modern South

Hokkaido's vastness divides it into four regions: Central (Dō-ō), Eastern (Dō-tō), Southern (Dō-nan), and Northern (Dō-hoku). There is no "Western Hokkaido."

This distinction holds true by my "nearest convenience store/supermarket index." Northern Hokkaido is the real deal.

The Oloron Line (Route 108 from Teshio to Wakkanai) and Esanuka Line near Saru-fushi are must-ride super-highways for motorcyclists and cyclists—epic stretches of nothingness.

Eastern Hokkaido: Passes & Fog

The east features mountain passes and fog. Shiretoko Pass—the toughest challenge on the loop—sits between Abashiri and Rausu. The Nemuro, Kitatappu, and Atka areas are misty.

Southern & Central: More Civilized

The south and central regions aren't as wild. You can reach the next urban area within 100km, and you'll see houses and people along the way—what cyclists call "connected towns."

⚠️ Traffic Warning: As you approach Sapporo, traffic increases. The final clockwise stretch from Iwanai → Yorozu → Otaru is tunnel-heavy. Stay alert—wear a reflective vest!

I received a reflective vest as a gift from a Hokkaido 10-loop veteran helper and wore it religiously.

The tunnels around Yōichi are genuinely terrifying. Don't forget accident prevention measures or rear lights.

Elevation Gain

"What, that much?" Google Maps navigation elevation data isn't reliable.

The Main Challenge: Shiretoko Pass

The peak is 741m / 2,431ft. The Utoro side has a dull but long climb; the Rausu side features switchbacks with steeper gradients.

I rode a single-speed Dahon folding bike—this pass was extremely difficult. Plus bears appear regularly and thick fog rolls in.

Bear Safety: Seeing a cub is the most dangerous moment—the mother is 100% nearby. Bears are overprotective parents.

Accidents make good YouTube content, but afterward everyone told me this bear advice.

Route Planning

The basic pattern for cycling around Hokkaido is: "Follow coastal roads relentlessly."

The route follows this principle—stick to the national highway closest to the sea.

Intermediate Rider Options

• Inland routes (Furano, Daisetsuzan, Lake Mashu)
• Cross to Okushiri Island or Rishiri Island by ferry
• Complete all capes (~3,000km / 1,864 miles—true asceticism with multiple detours)

I met a cyclist in Sapporo who said "I went to Okushiri Island"—a ferry trip from Esashi.

The inland route features Furano, Daisetsuzan National Park, and Lake Mashu—basically mountains. The Kushiro → Obihiro → Erimo detour is a fairly popular side trip.

Clockwise or Counter-Clockwise?

"Islands and lakes: clockwise. Peninsulas: counter-clockwise."
This cycling rule of thumb keeps water on your right when riding on the left side of roads.

Treating Hokkaido as a large island, following this theory means going clockwise. I rode from Sapporo to the Ishikari River mouth, then completed the full loop clockwise.

However, many counter-clockwise riders were on the road. No particular advantage either way—choose freely based on wind patterns or preference.

Road Conditions

Hokkaido's road surfaces are relatively rough—both urban and suburban areas are approximate.

Especially the shoulders—about 70% look like this. Asphalt peels, with countless holes and cracks. This is largely due to cold weather and snow removal.

"Hokkaido roads aren't that good," several locals told me. Even I, an outsider, felt it.

Impact on Bikes

This condition is hard on road bike skinny tires or mini-velo small wheels. I experienced a dozen flats and several tire failures during this trip.

If using thin tires, bring spare tubes AND spare tires.

Tire Reality: I brought 3 spare tires, bought 2 more at Kushiro AEON Bike, used them all up completely, and finished by patching with Gorilla Tape.

14-inch folding bikes are not suitable for long-distance touring.

Getting to Hokkaido with a Bicycle

You cannot reach Hokkaido by road alone—use one of these public transport options.

I'm a travel lover who hates vehicles—a troublesome personality. I can ride a bike for 10 hours but can't sit on a bus or taxi for 10 minutes, seriously.

My Elimination Process

• Ferry: Maizuru → Otaru is 20 hours 55 minutes. Too long for me.
• Shinkansen: Shin-Osaka → Shinhakodate-Hokuto is 7 hours 30 minutes. Not easy either.
• No early-bird discounts on trains or ferries like airline tickets.

ANA Flight Bike Transport = Justice

Automatically, ANA's Mach 1 Boeing 787 was selected. My first flight bike transport in about a year since Beppu, Oita.

I booked ANA flight 777 on August 1, 2022 (Itami → New Chitose) on July 11 using Super Value 21K. Price: ¥17,810.

Booking Tip: ANA's baggage regulations are slightly more lenient than JAL's (no long-side limit specified). Book 21 days in advance for best prices.

Why Not LCC?

Kansai Airport LCC flights charge extra for bikes (¥3,900). Add train fare to Kansai Terminal 2—"the end of the world"—and Peach's budget appeal fades.

Itami Airport is within cycling distance from my home. ANA and JAL include baggage fees in ticket price.

Ferry Bike Transport Benefits

E-bike Note: Lithium batteries are completely blacklisted on passenger aircraft. Experienced e-bikers ship batteries separately via Yamato Transport, then assemble at destination. Ferries require none of this hassle.

Duration: How Many Days?

The basic Hokkaido loop is 2500km (1,553 miles) of flat coastal roads. Only Shiretoko Pass has extreme climbing. Next is Tomakomai → Shinhonbetsu's four ups and downs. Otherwise nearly flat.

The Math: 100km/Day

This isn't difficult. A very realistic goal—assuming no typhoons, accidents, mechanical failures, or illness.

Hokkaido Cycling Association Tour: 24 days with support car, support riders, and group ride—quite leisurely pace.

My Extreme Schedule

I tightened it slightly: August 2-20, net 19 days. That's 130km/day (81 miles).

Ordinary people should not overestimate abilities. Know your limits and plan milder schedules. It's either the rider or the equipment that will speak up.

Cost Breakdown

Hokkaido loop costs depend on duration. Main expenses are food and accommodation.

I secured all accommodations in advance, planning for video editing and YouTube uploads. Solo obitori (no meals) reservations during Obon were tricky but I got nearly ideal spacing.

Tax Deduction: As a YouTuber creating content, travel and food costs are business expenses. I kept all receipts carefully.

Transportation Costs

• ANA Itami → New Chitose: ¥17,810
• ANA New Chitose → Itami: ¥16,610
• JR New Chitose ↔ Sapporo (round trip): ¥2,300

Total transportation: ¥36,720. Super Value 21K early-bird discount made flights very affordable. Home to Itami Airport by bike = ¥0.

Accommodation Costs

Average is roughly ¥5,000/night. On-site payment and online reservations are similar.

Budget Option: If you don't mind camping, use campgrounds and day-trip hot springs throughout Hokkaido for a very cheap loop. A good tent pays for itself quickly.

Food Costs

This fits within ¥2,500/day.

Personal Lunch Top 3

1. Tankaku Ōkoku: Beef sausage
2. Conchiglie: Uni risotto with raw oysters
3. Lucky Pierrot: Chinese chicken burger set

Essential Gear & Tips

I temporarily lost my wallet in Numata (forgot it at a supermarket) and learned the importance of backups. Seriously, I nearly game-overed.

Lesson: With money, you can buy anything locally. But my Dahon 14-inch tires barely exist in stores. Minor-spec bikes for touring = not recommended.

Puncture Prevention

Punctures are cycling's fate. Road bike skinny clincher tires are basically puncture god summoning devices.

This is extreme, but completing 2500km without flats or issues isn't realistic.

Mandatory Items

• Portable air pump ✓
• Puncture repair kit ✓
• Spare tubes (multiple) ✓
• Spare tires (at least 2-3) ✓
• Gloves, hand towels, wet wipes (for dirty hands) ✓

Motivation Killer: Dirty hands from outdoor repairs drastically lower motivation. This hits mentally.

Portable Tools

Punctures are just the beginning. Long trips bring unexpected issues—especially fragile folding bikes.

"Who could predict the rear freehub ratchet pawl spring breaking?!"

The "going-out trio"—portable pump, puncture kit, portable tools—is mandatory.

Bike Shop Reality in Hokkaido

Bicycle shops are niche businesses in rural Hokkaido. Asahi and AEON Bike only in cities; individual shops rare. Most are motorcycle shop side businesses.

If you need something unavailable locally, order online with Yamato delivery to business office, post office hold, or accommodation.

Hokkaido Cycling Loop Summary